I feel miserable. The local football team, SM Caen, just got relegated to the second division.
Tonight was the last game of the season and Caen lost 1-0 to Bordeaux, who – as a result of their win – lifted the league title. To make it an even more complex night, the goal was scored by a former Caen hero who joined Bordeaux last summer.
I didn’t manage to get a seat for the match – there were huge queues for tickets on Monday and touts made a lot of money from Bordeaux fans. With the match sold out, the city council put on a big screen in the town centre.
Like a lot of local people, I’m gutted by tonight’s result - I’ve been to see a lot of matches this season and I’ve had a soft spot for the team for a long time, ever since one of my favourite players got a transfer here in the late 80s.
Despite feeling miserable by a disappointing season and tonight’s relegation, I can’t claim to ‘feel’ it quite like real fans. I realised this at a match in November when Caen lost to huge local rivals Le Havre. The manner of the defeat – a late goal, totally against the run of play – added to the bitterness of the result.
Supporters around me were stunned, speechless and unable to move. I didn’t know what to do. I didn’t feel as crushed as these people looked (although I knew how it felt), so I headed for the exit.
This action felt a little like a betrayal. But there was nothing I could have done. Had I stuck around and claimed to feel as bad as the others did, I would have been faking it.
Partly because of that match and partly because my health was poor over the winter (and it was freezing out on a Saturday night), I didn’t go to many more games. When I got back in the spring the confidence of the team and the fans that was so apparent earlier in the season had evaporated.
I will continue to follow Caen – they will always be ‘my team’ in France. I might even get to see their first game in Ligue 2 before I return to Brighton. And we will all be confident about the new season and getting promoted back to the top division.
Life is full of disappointments, but the true football fan is always an optimist – at least at the start of a season.
Saturday, 30 May 2009
Monday, 18 May 2009
La grippe porcine
Watching the swine ‘flu drama unfold is not a pleasant experience for me. Especially living overseas.
I know that this strain of ‘flu is milder than the usual seasonal ‘flu that is passed around every winter, so I get irritated that healthy people in wealthy countries are panicking about dying but fail to follow the simple hygiene procedures that could protect those most at risk.
Everyone who has died from swine ‘flu in Europe has been suffering from a serious long-term health condition.
Although Crohn’s disease could be included in this category, the advice from the UK Crohn’s and Colitis charity, NACC, is that people with Crohn’s who are taking immuno-suppressive medication should not have an increased risk of contracting swine ‘flu.
The NACC statement goes on to say that, if symptoms develop, people with Crohn’s should go through the same process as everyone else and that treatment with the anti-viral drug Tamiflu should not be problematic.
Every autumn, I have ‘flu vaccination as I am considered ‘at risk’ if I catch the normal seasonal ‘flu. That is because I have a long-term health condition and I am taking immuno-suppressive medication. I guess that I am more likely to catch the disease and less able to fight it.
I am working on the same assumption will swine ‘flu. So I am still a little anxious.
And that anxiety is raised by living overseas and still not quite understanding the way the health system works. However, the advice here seems the same and the public information seem clearer than in the UK.
If I get symptoms, I will phone my GP and do what he says. I will also rest, stay well-hydrated and eat normally. However, I am hoping that I will escape the virus until I get back to the UK in mid-August. By then there may be a vaccine ready.
In the meantime, I will carry on with life as usual. I always wash my hands when I get home and before I eat. I carry an alcohol handwash with me when I am out too. And I have developed over the years an instinctive response to avoid people who look like they are about to sneeze or cough in my direction.
Of course, if this does become a full-blown pandemic I may stay indoors for a while – especially if the virus seems to become more virulent and the disease more serious.
I know that this strain of ‘flu is milder than the usual seasonal ‘flu that is passed around every winter, so I get irritated that healthy people in wealthy countries are panicking about dying but fail to follow the simple hygiene procedures that could protect those most at risk.
Everyone who has died from swine ‘flu in Europe has been suffering from a serious long-term health condition.
Although Crohn’s disease could be included in this category, the advice from the UK Crohn’s and Colitis charity, NACC, is that people with Crohn’s who are taking immuno-suppressive medication should not have an increased risk of contracting swine ‘flu.
The NACC statement goes on to say that, if symptoms develop, people with Crohn’s should go through the same process as everyone else and that treatment with the anti-viral drug Tamiflu should not be problematic.
Every autumn, I have ‘flu vaccination as I am considered ‘at risk’ if I catch the normal seasonal ‘flu. That is because I have a long-term health condition and I am taking immuno-suppressive medication. I guess that I am more likely to catch the disease and less able to fight it.
I am working on the same assumption will swine ‘flu. So I am still a little anxious.
And that anxiety is raised by living overseas and still not quite understanding the way the health system works. However, the advice here seems the same and the public information seem clearer than in the UK.
If I get symptoms, I will phone my GP and do what he says. I will also rest, stay well-hydrated and eat normally. However, I am hoping that I will escape the virus until I get back to the UK in mid-August. By then there may be a vaccine ready.
In the meantime, I will carry on with life as usual. I always wash my hands when I get home and before I eat. I carry an alcohol handwash with me when I am out too. And I have developed over the years an instinctive response to avoid people who look like they are about to sneeze or cough in my direction.
Of course, if this does become a full-blown pandemic I may stay indoors for a while – especially if the virus seems to become more virulent and the disease more serious.
Friday, 8 May 2009
The final stretch
My trip back to Brighton was a good one. It helped that the reason for going back was the marriage of two friends – a happy and fun event.
As I travelled across West Sussex from the ferry port to Brighton I did feel a bit of culture shock. I understood everything that people said and everything looked familiar, but not recent. In other words it was familiar as a place I used to live, but not quite home.
Like in November, as I came off the ferry and caught the bus into Caen, it felt like I was coming home.
Brighton is always very attractive in May and I think I am looking forward to returning – but not yet. I want to make the most of my time in France - especially as I feel like we are on the final stretch.
There are trips we want to go on and still places in Caen to visit. I have always wanted to go to the Le Mans 24 hour race and this is my best chance – the circuit is only 100 miles away, an hour by train.
I bought my ticket for the Le Mans just before my trip back to Brighton, so I am definitely going. I just need to work out the logistics of how I am going to enjoy the experience and not let my Crohn’s get in the way.
The whole of this year is testament to how it is possible to follow dreams, despite the impact of a long-term health condition. Before I came I knew, in theory, I should be able to enjoy the year – but I am growing in confidence the more this is proving to be true.
As I travelled across West Sussex from the ferry port to Brighton I did feel a bit of culture shock. I understood everything that people said and everything looked familiar, but not recent. In other words it was familiar as a place I used to live, but not quite home.
Like in November, as I came off the ferry and caught the bus into Caen, it felt like I was coming home.
Brighton is always very attractive in May and I think I am looking forward to returning – but not yet. I want to make the most of my time in France - especially as I feel like we are on the final stretch.
There are trips we want to go on and still places in Caen to visit. I have always wanted to go to the Le Mans 24 hour race and this is my best chance – the circuit is only 100 miles away, an hour by train.
I bought my ticket for the Le Mans just before my trip back to Brighton, so I am definitely going. I just need to work out the logistics of how I am going to enjoy the experience and not let my Crohn’s get in the way.
The whole of this year is testament to how it is possible to follow dreams, despite the impact of a long-term health condition. Before I came I knew, in theory, I should be able to enjoy the year – but I am growing in confidence the more this is proving to be true.
Wednesday, 29 April 2009
The rhythm of life
The last month has provoked a lot of thought. Family history and Becky’s studies have given us a strong attachment to this part of France, but an ambiguous one.
Our visitors – friends and family – have reminded us of our life in the UK and the fact that we will be returning there in the summer. I think this is also something I had mixed feelings about, but now I am looking forward to returning, but, equally, I can’t wait for another opportunity to live abroad.
Tomorrow I’m returning briefly to Brighton for a friend’s wedding – a very happy event – and also to see my family there.
Compared with the trip I made in November, I am very relaxed about this trip. I like how I now feel comfortable living in France. Last time I returned here with a suitcase full of stuff. This time I am taking a packed suitcase of things to Brighton and plan to return with, maybe, a jar of mango chutney and some teabags – but nothing more. We are happy with what we have here.
Although my health isn’t great and I am not able to eat a very wide variety of foods, I think I have found a good equilibrium in terms of looking after myself, resting and eating the right things. In fact, I think I am doing this better than I usually do in the UK – I have to remember how I have managed this for when we return.
This rhythm of life has also meant that I am sticking at some of the things I often find difficult due to fluctuations in my health. My guitar playing has improved considerably (although still isn’t very good). I have also been able to devour numerous novels and work my way through some non-fiction books too.
I think I have benefited from being away from all the day-to-day low-key stress and the comfortable rut I had found myself in. Not that there are no stresses here – very big ones like the language and totally different bureaucratic structures, laws and cultural rules, to name just a few.
However, I have seen me and my health lifted out of my normal environment and I think I understand more about how I can now get the most out of life when I get back to the UK. If that is the only thing I get out of this stay, it has been a very valuable year.
Our visitors – friends and family – have reminded us of our life in the UK and the fact that we will be returning there in the summer. I think this is also something I had mixed feelings about, but now I am looking forward to returning, but, equally, I can’t wait for another opportunity to live abroad.
Tomorrow I’m returning briefly to Brighton for a friend’s wedding – a very happy event – and also to see my family there.
Compared with the trip I made in November, I am very relaxed about this trip. I like how I now feel comfortable living in France. Last time I returned here with a suitcase full of stuff. This time I am taking a packed suitcase of things to Brighton and plan to return with, maybe, a jar of mango chutney and some teabags – but nothing more. We are happy with what we have here.
Although my health isn’t great and I am not able to eat a very wide variety of foods, I think I have found a good equilibrium in terms of looking after myself, resting and eating the right things. In fact, I think I am doing this better than I usually do in the UK – I have to remember how I have managed this for when we return.
This rhythm of life has also meant that I am sticking at some of the things I often find difficult due to fluctuations in my health. My guitar playing has improved considerably (although still isn’t very good). I have also been able to devour numerous novels and work my way through some non-fiction books too.
I think I have benefited from being away from all the day-to-day low-key stress and the comfortable rut I had found myself in. Not that there are no stresses here – very big ones like the language and totally different bureaucratic structures, laws and cultural rules, to name just a few.
However, I have seen me and my health lifted out of my normal environment and I think I understand more about how I can now get the most out of life when I get back to the UK. If that is the only thing I get out of this stay, it has been a very valuable year.
Saturday, 18 April 2009
Voyage into the unknown
It is not just me who has family links to Basse-Normandie, my partner Becky has history here too.
Like my father, Becky’s dad landed in Normandy after D-Day. He arrived with General Patton’s US Third Army at Cherbourg at the end of July 1944. Under-age, Becky’s dad fought in some of the bloodiest campaigns of the war - the break-out in Normandy and then defeating the Nazi counterattack at the Battle of the Bulge - before invading Germany.
He has never talked about his experiences, beyond a few, typically humorous, anecdotes. It is hardly surprising. He probably only survived because he spoke a little German (actually, he spoke Yiddish) and was looked on as valuable after all the official translators had been killed within days of leaving Cherbourg.
Becky and I visited Cherbourg this week, but it was not Becky’s father's footsteps we were trying to discover.
Between the wars, Cherbourg had been one of the major ports of departure for European migration to the United States of America. From the early 1930s liners departed from a grand Art Deco terminal to travel to New York. The terminal now houses a vast modern museum to the sea, complete with aquaria and a nuclear submarine.
In 1922, Becky’s grandmother left for a new life in America. Thousands of migrants from across Europe would huddle on the quayside, waiting for the liners to dock. The shipping companies would run medical tests and check papers before allowing passengers on board – the companies would be responsible for paying passage back to Europe for those who failed the immigration procedure at Ellis Island.
A few years ago, Becky and I visited Ellis Island and discovered in the archives that Becky’s grandmother had travelled with her sister on the Mauritania from Cherbourg to New York. Before that she had travelled from the city of Uman in what is now the Ukraine.
It was incredible to be in Cherbourg and to try and imagine the amazing adventures that the thousands of migrants – including Becky’s grandmother – embarked on from this port.
For many - particularly Jews from eastern Europe - this would prove to be a voyage of survival, with no family members surviving the famines of the 1930s, the second world war and the Nazi Holocaust.
Again, we were struck by the enormity of history in these lands, the terrible suffering of the last century that – thankfully – never quite reached the British mainland.
Living in mainland Europe has given us an opportunity to uncover the local history – made more poignant by family connections – and has allowed us to understand some of the nuances of how post war Europe has been shaped.
Like my father, Becky’s dad landed in Normandy after D-Day. He arrived with General Patton’s US Third Army at Cherbourg at the end of July 1944. Under-age, Becky’s dad fought in some of the bloodiest campaigns of the war - the break-out in Normandy and then defeating the Nazi counterattack at the Battle of the Bulge - before invading Germany.
He has never talked about his experiences, beyond a few, typically humorous, anecdotes. It is hardly surprising. He probably only survived because he spoke a little German (actually, he spoke Yiddish) and was looked on as valuable after all the official translators had been killed within days of leaving Cherbourg.
Becky and I visited Cherbourg this week, but it was not Becky’s father's footsteps we were trying to discover.
Between the wars, Cherbourg had been one of the major ports of departure for European migration to the United States of America. From the early 1930s liners departed from a grand Art Deco terminal to travel to New York. The terminal now houses a vast modern museum to the sea, complete with aquaria and a nuclear submarine.
In 1922, Becky’s grandmother left for a new life in America. Thousands of migrants from across Europe would huddle on the quayside, waiting for the liners to dock. The shipping companies would run medical tests and check papers before allowing passengers on board – the companies would be responsible for paying passage back to Europe for those who failed the immigration procedure at Ellis Island.
A few years ago, Becky and I visited Ellis Island and discovered in the archives that Becky’s grandmother had travelled with her sister on the Mauritania from Cherbourg to New York. Before that she had travelled from the city of Uman in what is now the Ukraine.
It was incredible to be in Cherbourg and to try and imagine the amazing adventures that the thousands of migrants – including Becky’s grandmother – embarked on from this port.
For many - particularly Jews from eastern Europe - this would prove to be a voyage of survival, with no family members surviving the famines of the 1930s, the second world war and the Nazi Holocaust.
Again, we were struck by the enormity of history in these lands, the terrible suffering of the last century that – thankfully – never quite reached the British mainland.
Living in mainland Europe has given us an opportunity to uncover the local history – made more poignant by family connections – and has allowed us to understand some of the nuances of how post war Europe has been shaped.
Sunday, 12 April 2009
Memories of the debarquement
When we came to Normandy I was aware that I had family connections to the region, but the last week has brought this history home to me.
My father – who visited us this week – passed through Basse-Normandie on two occasions during the second world war. The first time was fleeing the German advance that had cut off a route to the Dunkirk retreat in 1940. He was eventually ferried back to the UK in a Breton fishing boat.
The second time, he arrived at Arromanches two weeks after D-Day in 1944. He worked as an anaesthetist at the military hospital outside Bayeux and then set up a dental laboratory at the small seaside town of Langrune-sur-mer, just north-west of Caen.
The reason that the army needed a dentist so soon after D-Day is an interesting one. The combination of the rough seas of June 1944 and the fashion for young men to have false teeth meant that a lot of dentures ended up on the seabed. My father's laboratory was busy producing and fitting new dentures for the British troops.
So our trip to Langrune this week was an important family pilgrimage. During a previous visit in 1963 my father had failed to find the chalet where he had lived or the dental laboratory. But he felt in his bones that they were still there.
Whilst the rest of the family opted out of this wild goose chase, me and my 92 year-old dad trekked around the town. Taking the old church as a landmark, he narrowed down our search to the western edge of the town – still quite a large area.
Just as we were about to give up, my dad suggested we try just one more road, even though it was right on the boundary with the next town. As we turned down the small, unpaved road it looked like the old black and white pictures my father had taken in 1944.
About halfway down the road he spotted the chalet, still called “Marie Louise” and looking just like it had 65 years ago. It was a fabulous moment – not only had we succeeded in our quest, but it was very emotional for my father to reconnect with his past so concretely. And it was very moving for me to be there with him.
The dental laboratory was in the next street. It has been set up in a small workshop, which was now converted into a house. We had really hit the jackpot.
After living in Langrune for 3 months and looking after local people’s teeth as well as the soldiers', my father followed the advancing army to Belgium where he was based in Antwerp and Brugges.
Having a family connection to the events of 65 years ago probably helps to remind me of the history of this region of France. It is not a pleasant history. Even as the region was being liberated, thousands of civilians were killed in air-raids and ancient towns and cities were razed to the ground.
The Nazi occupation had divided the local people between those who resisted, those who collaborated and those who did neither. The memories of these divisions are deep and painful and the wounds still have not healed today.
My father – who visited us this week – passed through Basse-Normandie on two occasions during the second world war. The first time was fleeing the German advance that had cut off a route to the Dunkirk retreat in 1940. He was eventually ferried back to the UK in a Breton fishing boat.
The second time, he arrived at Arromanches two weeks after D-Day in 1944. He worked as an anaesthetist at the military hospital outside Bayeux and then set up a dental laboratory at the small seaside town of Langrune-sur-mer, just north-west of Caen.
The reason that the army needed a dentist so soon after D-Day is an interesting one. The combination of the rough seas of June 1944 and the fashion for young men to have false teeth meant that a lot of dentures ended up on the seabed. My father's laboratory was busy producing and fitting new dentures for the British troops.
So our trip to Langrune this week was an important family pilgrimage. During a previous visit in 1963 my father had failed to find the chalet where he had lived or the dental laboratory. But he felt in his bones that they were still there.
Whilst the rest of the family opted out of this wild goose chase, me and my 92 year-old dad trekked around the town. Taking the old church as a landmark, he narrowed down our search to the western edge of the town – still quite a large area.
Just as we were about to give up, my dad suggested we try just one more road, even though it was right on the boundary with the next town. As we turned down the small, unpaved road it looked like the old black and white pictures my father had taken in 1944.
About halfway down the road he spotted the chalet, still called “Marie Louise” and looking just like it had 65 years ago. It was a fabulous moment – not only had we succeeded in our quest, but it was very emotional for my father to reconnect with his past so concretely. And it was very moving for me to be there with him.
The dental laboratory was in the next street. It has been set up in a small workshop, which was now converted into a house. We had really hit the jackpot.
After living in Langrune for 3 months and looking after local people’s teeth as well as the soldiers', my father followed the advancing army to Belgium where he was based in Antwerp and Brugges.
Having a family connection to the events of 65 years ago probably helps to remind me of the history of this region of France. It is not a pleasant history. Even as the region was being liberated, thousands of civilians were killed in air-raids and ancient towns and cities were razed to the ground.
The Nazi occupation had divided the local people between those who resisted, those who collaborated and those who did neither. The memories of these divisions are deep and painful and the wounds still have not healed today.
Sunday, 22 March 2009
The first days of spring
Spring has arrived in Normandy. A week of sunshine was the prelude to the first asparagus of the year at Friday’s market.
We had a friend visiting and it was fantastic to be out and about, spending lots of time in cafés and taking a trip to the coast.
Seeing friends from the UK no longer makes us homesick. Hearing all the news about what is going on there makes us feel quite distant.
We read the British newspapers and are appalled and concerned by the impact of the economic crisis and the degeneration of people’s civil liberties.
However, our news is the French news – that is what affects us here. Although the crisis is big news here, the response is different.
As one of the big political figures said about the general strike last Thursday: “In a period of economic crisis sometimes it's everybody for themselves... but here, that's not the case. There is a collective force being born.”
Here in Caen – with a population of around 120,000 people – over 35,000 people took to the streets on Thursday. Across France at least three million people took part.
I managed to see something of the demonstration in Caen – the last time I spent the day in hospital having my infliximab infusion – and it was an amazing sight.
Engineers, civil servants, students and women from the perfume counter at Galeries Lafayette were all marching and demanding that ordinary people get the same protection from the economic crisis as the bankers are receiving.
Not much to ask eh?
We had a friend visiting and it was fantastic to be out and about, spending lots of time in cafés and taking a trip to the coast.
Seeing friends from the UK no longer makes us homesick. Hearing all the news about what is going on there makes us feel quite distant.
We read the British newspapers and are appalled and concerned by the impact of the economic crisis and the degeneration of people’s civil liberties.
However, our news is the French news – that is what affects us here. Although the crisis is big news here, the response is different.
As one of the big political figures said about the general strike last Thursday: “In a period of economic crisis sometimes it's everybody for themselves... but here, that's not the case. There is a collective force being born.”
Here in Caen – with a population of around 120,000 people – over 35,000 people took to the streets on Thursday. Across France at least three million people took part.
I managed to see something of the demonstration in Caen – the last time I spent the day in hospital having my infliximab infusion – and it was an amazing sight.
Engineers, civil servants, students and women from the perfume counter at Galeries Lafayette were all marching and demanding that ordinary people get the same protection from the economic crisis as the bankers are receiving.
Not much to ask eh?
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